Sylvia Sews

I started this project with very mixed feelings. Enough time had passed between the purchase of the fabric and the pattern purchase that the impulsive rush to sew had passed, and it was feeling more chore-like to complete.

Still, I decided to press forward and just start sewing the damn thing.

Several things irritated me right off the bat, even though they should be positive features of the pattern. There was absolutely no cutting on the fold for any of the pattern. To maximize fabric. A noble cause, but as I cut doubles of everything I was interally stewing. “Really? Minimizing a couple fabric scraps is the hill we die on? Am I really supposed to be guilty about this too, ruining the environment with this hobby?” Those sorts of thoughts.

Anyways. For pattern adjustments, I initially added two inches to the bodice, one inch to the rise (The rise addition, I would later regret), and 4 inches to the length of the pants. I always get a little rush of anxiety after I add my leg length to the pieces and lay the pattern pieces on the fabric, remembering that I didn’t buy extra to account for extended length. But, we were safe. I didn’t fuss too much with any additional alterations, because after reading a little bit from people who have made this garment I knew to expect a looser, roomy fit.

I used a washed linen from Blackbird fabrics which I totally love.

The top came togther easy, the fit and waist length was great, then I sewed the lower half together and cringed. The crotch length was absolutely absurd! If I pulled the pants up to the proper crotch length, the waist would be around my armpits. Are you freaking kidding me?? Obviously you need alittle ease in the crotch of a jumpsuit so you don’t have a perpetual wedgie, but WTF???

Luckily, taking in the length doesn’t require more fabric so I was able to make the alteration with out having to recut any pieces. But as I took it in, I was still pissed that I had to take in 4 inches. How does this pattern fit anyone?? Between this and no cutting on the fold, I had a bone to pick. But the final product was awesome, so I was able to forgive and forget.

This is the second pair of pants I have made where the crotch is absurdly long and large. It does not compute in my brain, that despite being 7 inches taller than the height the pattern is made for, I need to shorten something. But it is seeming that may be the case for pants. I guess it adds up.. sizing up doesn’t necessarily make room for my skeleton – it’s expecting the extra size elsewhere. Here is a visual representation of the curves of my lower body:

So, the main piece of wisdom I gained from this project is that the term for my issue is “Crotch length”. Part of the challenge with fit, is simply knowing the term for the problem.

So now I can google “Crotch length” and get more informative altering tips. You wouldn’t initially think that search term would take you to tailoring recommendations.

After that fit problem was all cleared up, it became really pleasant to sew and I fell more in love with the magic of the serger. Finishing seams is so fast and painless with the thing, it is amazing. It was already threaded and worked like a charm, no broken needles, no issues.

Even though I was initially pissed off by this pattern, in the end I am very impressed with the cleverness of the design. I wore it out for a day and was totally in love with it! I would never be able to buy a 100% linen tall jumpsuit for any reasonable price. The summer wardrobe is coming together!